Step-by-Step Guide, Spindle Grant Table Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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I have been dying to use the color Lichen by Fusion Mineral Paint and it did not disappoint! It's such a soothing green color. Aren’t the spindles amazing on this table? See the makeover below!

The Prep Process:

The Painting Process:

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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Industrial Filing Cabinets to Side Tables Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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I’ve been on the hunt for a couple of unique filing cabinets so that I could transform them into something cool. These were the perfect fit and you can do so many different things with them. You can make them into side tables/nightstands, set them apart and add a piece of wood to the top to make a desk, or of course, they could be used as filing cabinets! I love when pieces serve so many different purposes. Anyway, when I saw these two I snatched them up and got to work! See the process below.

THE PREP PROCESS:

  • I removed the drawers and laid everything out so I could have easy access to each piece during the cleaning process.

  • I cleaned and scrubbed the cabinets inside-and-out with Krud Kutter and a Scotch Brite pad.

  • I let the cabinets dry really well in the sun, HOWEVER, I did not let the metal get hot because I knew that it would affect the application of the spray paint. I made sure that they dried well (about 30 minutes), but then moved them to the shade.

THE PAINTING PROCESS:

  • The painting process was pretty simple. I found a well ventilated area (not in the direct sunlight) and started spraying! My absolute favorite product to use on metal is Rust-Oleum spray paint. It goes on smooth and holds up really well over time. I probably could have gotten away with (2) cans of spray paint, but being the perfectionist that I am when it comes to painting, I actually used (1.5) cans on each cabinet, so I went through (3) cans total. I wanted to make sure I covered every square inch, inside-and-out.

ADDING WOOD BASE:

  • The base of the filing cabinet measures 12 x 24, so I had a to buy a large board from The Home Depot and cut it down to fit the base.

  • I smoothed out the cut board with a piece of sandpaper then I scuffed up the bottom of the filing cabinet so the glue would adhere well.

  • I just Rapid Bond Super Glue and spread it all over the bottom of the filing cabinet.

  • I quickly placed the cut board on top of the glue. Instead of clamping the board down with clamps, I just added some books and weights to the top to apply pressure.

ADDING HAIRPIN LEGS:

  • I purchased these Hairpin Legs off of Amazon.

  • The instructions recommended screwing the legs in 1.5” from the edge, so that’s what we did!

  • The screws that came with the legs were too long, so I had to purchase new ones (pictured below)

  • I measured and marked each hole then my husband pre-drilled and screwed them in for me.

BEFORE-AND-AFTER PHOTOS: I love the way these turned out! They were just as I envisioned. They can serve many different purposes and are one-of-a-kind!!

Guess what!? These are for sale, too!! Here is the listing: Industrial Filing Cabinets/Side Tables. If you aren’t local and would like a shipping quote, just let me know!

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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Humidor to Side Table Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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This is one of those pieces that you walk by and you’re like, “Oh my goodness! What a cute little table!” I instantly saw the potential because of it’s petite size! See the process below.

The Prep Process:

  • I removed the hardware and the door. I wasn’t crazy about the door because it drooped a little, so I went ahead and took it off. I also knew I was going to replace the top so I went ahead and unscrewed it and took it off as well.

  • Even though this piece was a humidor, it was pretty clean. I think it was used as a side table, instead of humidor, so it was pretty clean. I went ahead and gave it a good bath though with TSP.

  • Once everything was dry I scuff-sanded the piece with 220 grit sandpaper.

  • After I sanded it, I vacuumed it really well and cleaned it again with Krud-Kutter.

The Staining Process

The Painting Process:

  • For the body of the piece I used Fiddle Leaf by Old Barn Milk Paint.I applied two coats with my Zibra 2” Palm Pro letting each coat dry well in-between.

  • Once both coats were dry, I lightly hand-sanded it with 220 girt sandpaper to give it an aged look. By doing this it added some depth to the piece. The paint also naturally chipped in a few places which was exactly what I wanted!

  • I sealed the entire piece with Clear Wax by Old Barn Milk Paint. After it sat on the piece for about 30 minutes, I buffed it with a shop towel to make it nice and smooth.

  • I added new knobs to match the dark oak top.

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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Step-by-Step Guide, A Simple White Table Makeover

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Isn’t this the cutest little table? It was a custom piece I re-did for a client. It definitely needed a refresh and some fixing, but it was a pretty simple process! See below.

THE PREP PROCESS:

  • I cleaned this piece with a 3M sponge and TSP

  • After it was dry, I sanded the top of the piece with 120 grit on my orbital sander and then hand sanded the legs with a 120 grit piece of sandpaper

  • I vacuumed off all of the sanding dust

  • I cleaned the whole piece one more time Krud Kutter and shop towels. I wanted to make sure any lose dirt and dust from where I sanded it was completely gone

THE PRIMING PROCESS:

  • I spray-primed the whole piece with a coat of BIN /Shellac to prevent any potential bleed through

  • Once the Shellac was dry, I lightly hand sanded the piece with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the primer

  • I vacuumed the sanding dust so the surface was nice and clean

THE FIXING PROCESS: Just as a side note, I typically fix my pieces before I prime, but I did this piece backwards because it came apart on me during the priming process.

  • I glued the loose areas with Titebond and clamped everything until the glue was nice and dry. I also fixed any screws that had come loose.

  • I filled in the gaps under the table. There wasn’t a lot I could do with this area because the wood had warped. I filled the gaps with caulk to make the piece look nice and complete. Tune in tomorrow for my #TuesdaysTipsWithFallon tutorial so you can see this process.

THE PAINTING PROCESS:

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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OH NO!! This Drop Leaf Table Makeover Didn’t Go As Planned!!

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As promised, I wrote a blog post on the restoration process of the tricky maple table and chairs. This is the part you don’t typically see, but I wanted to share because it was a learning experience for me which will hopefully turn into a learning experience for you!

The Stripping Process: I went through my normal process of how I strip stain/paint. I brushed on a coat of CitriStip with a chip brush and covered it up with Saran Wrap. I let it sit for about 6 hours before I checked it. Sometimes I let the CitriStrip sit for up to 24 hours, checking it about every 6 to 12 hours to make sure everything working as it’s supposed to. This time when I pulled back the Saran Wrap I noticed it looked different than it normally does. So, I kept pulling it off and that’s about the time I kind of freaked out.

UMMM, what in the world happened!?

It looks like the stain “pooled” in areas, doesn’t it? Well, the super odd part is that after I cleaned all of the stripper off, leaving no CitriStrip on it (according to touch) all of that mess was still there. I could take a nail and scratch it across the top and nothing would come off on it. I was stumped. It was super weird. The only thing I could think to do was let it dry because maybe it was just damp deep down in the wood, but it wasn’t, so unfortunately that didn’t work. In the segment of pictures below, the 5th and 6th pictures are almost a week after this occurred.

I contacted a few of my professional painter friends and sent them this video! Bare with me, I originally had no intention of doing a blog post on this, so the video isn’t the best. I just want you to have a view of the table “live” if that makes sense?!

I tried everything I could think of to get the mess off of the top. I cleaned it. I sanded the heck out of it. I tried to strip small areas again. I tested other stripping products…nothing worked. Maybe it was sap or tannins, but, I honestly think the wood reacted in an odd way causing the CitriStrip to burn it.

For some odd reason this particular piece did not want to be stripped down, so the only thing I thought I could do was just sand it really hard. HA! Maple is a hard wood and this stuff wasn’t budging, so after I made it about three inches across the table and I went through at least 5 sanding discs I knew I was going to burn out my sander and I needed to call in the big guns.

I had to take the pieces to a professional sawmill and get an 1/8 of an inch planned off the top. In the pictures below you can see how much better it looked, but even after getting an 1/8” taken off, there were still some spots coming through so I had to spend a few more hours and sand those off with my orbital sander.

You may be wondering, did she try all 3 pieces? Yes, because curiosity had the best of me. I wanted to know if all three pieces would react the same way and they did. However, I didn’t use Saran Wrap on the other two pieces. Instead, I just brushed the CitriStrip on and let it sit for about 30 minutes. It was okay though because at that point I knew I was going to get them planned down and in all honesty, I wanted to have all 3 pieces planned at the same time because I wanted everything to match well.

WOW! So the stripping process took a lot longer than I anticipated! Now, I can finally paint and stain everything!

THE STAINING PROCESS:

THE PAINTING PROCESS:

Okay, so what did we learn from this!? Tables are finicky! While this case was extreme, I don’t think I have ever worked on a table that didn’t have some type of issue. They have been cleaned so many times compared to regular pieces of furniture because people eat off of them and I think over time all of the chemicals take a toll on the wood and cause it to react in different ways.

Again, out of all the tables and pieces of furniture I have ever stripped, this is the first time something this extreme has happened. That’s good news, right? If you’re hesitant to strip a piece or afraid something like this could potential occur, test a small area on the top or the underside of the piece first.

In the end, my client was extremely happy with the results. I had to tell her what happened, otherwise she would have never known. Thankfully, it turned out great and it was exactly what she wanted!

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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Step-by-Step Guide, Grey Chest-of-Drawers with Glass Knobs

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When I saw this chest-of-drawers I immediately knew I wanted to soften it up with a light color and big glass knobs. I envisioned it going in a girl's bedroom and that's exactly where it ended up going. Yay! See the process below.

THE PREP PROCESS:

  • I removed the drawers, took off the knobs (placed them in a Ziplock bag)

  • I cleaned this piece with a 3M sponge and TSP

  • After it was dry, I sanded the piece really well. It had a lot of scratches on it, so I used 150 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander and then I followed up with 220 grit to smooth it out a little bit.

  • I then vacuumed off all of the sanding dust, inside and out.

  • I cleaned the whole piece one more time Krud Kutter and shop towels. I wanted to make sure any lose dirt and dust from where I sanded it was completely gone.

  • I taped off all of the edges with painter’s tape

  • Once the prep process was complete, I waited 24 hours to make sure the chemical products I used had ample time to dry.

THE PAINTING PROCESS:

  • I primed the whole piece with 2 coats of BIN /Shellac to prevent any potential bleed through.

  • Once the Shellac was dry, I lightly hand sanded the piece with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the primer, dusted the piece off and a ran a tack cloth across it to make sure the piece was nice and smooth.

  • I applied 3 coats General Finishes Seagull Grey using my Zibra Fan brush and 2” Palm Pro.

  • I vacuumed the sanding dust.

  • I applied 3 coats of General Finishes High Performance Top Coat in Flat with my Zibra Chisled Wedge

  • At the end of the process I purchased a new back for the piece because the original one was gone. I went ahead and painted it to match the dresser to give a nice complete look. I purchased the wood from The Home Depot.

The gorgeous knobs on this chest-of-drawers are my favorite and the best price on the market! I got them from D.Lawless Hardware and they were the perfect touch to complete the look of this piece!

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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M | H Theater Seat's Makeover (Step-by-Step Guide)

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These theater seats were definitely a labor of love, but they were so worth it! Below is the process I took to restore them and give them a second chance at life!

The Prep Process:

  • I took apart everything and removed the top layer of veneer. The veneer was really messed up and beyond repair so my only option was to take it all off. I ended up scraping and chipping it all off with a hammer and metal putty knife/scrapper. There were a few stubborn spots, but thankfully most of it came off pretty easily.

  • I glued and clamped the plywood together where it had separated. This process took a few days because there was a lot of separation in the seats, as you can see in the “before” picture above.

  • Once the veneer was completely removed and everything was fixed/glued, I used 60 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander because I needed something really course to get rid of any leftover glue

  • I followed up with 120 grit sandpaper on my sander and smoothed everything out

  • I then wiped everything down with Mineral Spirits. Once it was nice and dry I started the painting process

The Painting Process:

The Staining Process:

Once everything cleaned, fixed, painted and stained, I put everything back together. I replaced the old screws and bolts with new ones since the originals were rusty and pretty bent up. I purchased the new ones from Lowe’s.

I love that I am able to use these in my studio and believe it or not, they are actually pretty comfortable to sit in!

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.

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How To Get This Look! Raw Dresser Makeover

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Happy Monday! I originally planned on a different makeover today but when I posted this dresser yesterday I received a ton of comments and questions, so I decided to write a blog post on it to help you guys out!

As I stated in yesterday’s post, our home was filled with other people’s furniture, my paint supplies, business paperwork and staging decor for so long I didn’t realize how empty our downstairs would be when I moved all of my business stuff out to the new studio. SO, I decided to keep this one because it has so much character. Plus, it was handmade in the 1850’s in my hometown and I have now poured my heart into the restoration so it’s a keeper in my book!

See the process below…

Now, the crazy part is that everyone thought this was the dresser that I was working on in my post where I am laying on the ground and I look flat-out exhausted, hahaha, but it’s actually a different one! I had to split the sanding up over a couple of days because this piece is a little larger than that one, but they are very similar in style! Ohhh, should I keep that one, too!? AHH! The struggle is real!!

The process was actual very simple, A LOT of work, but simple:

  • Vacuumed the whole piece inside-and-out

  • Cleaned and scrubbed with TSP

  • Fixed the loose areas with Titebond and made sure all the of the old square nails were still nailed in well and functioning properly

  • I then sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded with 60 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander. I intentionally did not sand out every single mark and scratch because I wanted to keep some of the original character. My goal was to just remove all of the old stain. I then followed up with 120 grit on my orbital sander to smooth everything out

  • I hand sanded with 220 grit (since I knew I wasn’t going to stain this piece I went with a higher grit to make it extra smooth)

  • Dusted off the piece with shop towels and vacuumed it really well

  • Sanded the knobs, painted them with General Finishes Lamp Black using my Square brush by Zibra, then distressed them with 150 grit sandpaper. I sealed the knobs with Country Chic Paint’s Natural Clear Wax (USE affiliate code: MARKETHOUSE10 to receive 10% off!)

  • Since the piece was so old, I went ahead and shellac’ed the inside of it, as well as the drawers

  • Finally, the sealing part. I’ve had a lot of questions about this and honestly, I did not seal this one. Since I’m keeping this piece for my own home and I know it’s not going to get a ton of use where I’m placing it, I did not top coat it. When you top coat or add a wax it tends to darken and change the color of the wood, so I didn’t want to take any chances of that happening because I was in love with the current look. HOWEVER, if I was going to use this piece in a bathroom or a high traffic area, I would definitely seal it with a poly or a clear wax. If for some reason it does get a dark spot on it and/or get’s dirty, I can just hand-sand it out!

*Just as a side note, make sure you always work in an open and well ventilated area Use a respirator mask, gloves and protective eye wear when necessary. Make sure your family and/or kids aren’t breathing in the harsh chemicals and dust either. Everyone’s health is more important than a piece of furniture!

I hope this information helps!! Thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. Make sure you sign up to get my email’s so you don’t miss out on my makeovers and FREE tips!! Also, if you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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Antique Drop Leaf Table Makeover Step-by-Step Guide! Trash to treasure!

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I found this antique drop leaf table on the side of the road and as soon as I saw the square nails from the 1800's I knew the value and potential and was definitely willing to put in the work to make it beautiful again.

The character on this piece is awesome!! After hours of work, it's now an awesome, authentic farmhouse drop-leaf table See the process below.

This piece was split and broken in a lot of places. I think I had clamps on it for a couple of weeks total. The legs were uneven, so my husband cut the bottoms and I sanded them down make them even. The before pictures speak for themselves, haha. I cleaned and sanded the heck out of this piece. As far as the colors go, I wanted them to go along with the age of the table, so I chose a primitive green for the base and a natural/raw look for the top so you could see the beautiful imperfections.

I decided to take off one of the drop-leaf's because somewhere along the way it was changed out with a mismatched warped board. I kept it though in case the person who bought it would want it, but did not add it back to the table. With that being said, the person who ended up purchasing it bought it to use as a desk and was going to push it up against the wall anyway, so the extra leaf didn’t matter. Yay!

The Prep Process:

  • I scrubbed this piece from top to bottom with TSP.

  • I glued and fixed every crack, split and broken area with Titebond and clamps

  • I decided to sand off the stain on the top since it was coming off any way. I used 120 grit sandpaper on my Orbital Sander, followed by 220 grit to clean up the roughness from the 120 grit. For the base, I hand sanded with 220 grit sandpaper

  • Vacuumed the piece

  • I cleaned the whole thing again with TSP. Once it was nice and dry I started the painting process.

The Painting Process:

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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DIY IKEA Apothecary Box Makeover

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About a week ago I shared these cute knock-off small apothecary cabinets on my Instagram stories and I got a lot of personal DM’s asking me about them. So, I decided to make a blog post with all the details! See below…

I have been looking for something to sit on top of my desk to could hold smaller item’s but I couldn’t find anything in my budget that I liked, so I came up with my own idea. When my sister and I went to Ikea last month, I bought these cute little cabinet-drawers for $16.99/each. I loved the size of them, but wasn’t crazy about the look.

I decided to take out the drawers and turn them around (so you couldn’t see the finger-pull) and use some of the awesome card catalog pulls that I purchased from D.Lawless Hardware to make them fit my style and the decor in my office.

Step 1: Since these drawers aren’t made of the highest quality wood, there are a lot of “particles” that sit on if it, so I took a 220 grit sanding block and sanded down all of the sides.

Step 2: Clean-off dust with vacuum

Step 3: I sprayed a thin coat of of BIN primer to the outsides. *Anytime you use spray primer or spray paint, make sure you’re in an open area and always wear a respirator mask and gloves.

Step 4: Sanded any remaining “particles” that may have been lifted from the wood when I applied the primer.

Step 5: Sprayed 2 coats of white Rust-Oleum spray paint to everything, including the insides

Step 6: After everything was nice and dry I added card catalog pulls that I purchased from D.Lawless Hardware. Instead of using tack-nails, since the wood is thin, I just used Multi-Surface Titebond and glued the pulls to the drawer. If you don’t have Titebond, Gorilla Glue or Loctite would also work well.

In case you’re wondering the measurements are: 16.5” long x 12.5” tall x 7.25” deep.

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As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

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