Antique General Store Apothecary Cabinet Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

#MondayMakeoversWithFallon

As SOON as I saw this piece I fell in love with it! Honestly, I didn’t realize how bad of shape it was in until I got it home and saw how broken and worn down it truly was, but it had a story and a history that most pieces of furniture don’t have the chance to tell so I was determined to make it beautiful again. I knew I didn’t want to paint this piece, in fact, I wanted to make it look as original as possible, but not perfect because I loved the scrapes and marks that the piece had collected on it over the years.

BEFORE PICTURES:

THE PREP PROCESS:

  1. First, I removed all of the drawers and vacuumed everything

  2. I used 60 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander and went to town! There was so much glue, old paint, tape and stickers on the wood, I just dove in and let the low-grit sand paper do most of the work. Since I wasn’t going for “perfection” on this piece, I figured that would be okay. I think I went through about 50 pieces of sandpaper. Ha!

  3. I removed all of the old felt that was attached in the top drawers. Yuck! Thankfully, most of it pulled off with ease, but there were a few stubborn areas that I had to use Goo Gone and a scraper to get it off.

  4. I took off the top piece of glass and cleaned it really well. There was a ton of duct tape on it, so I used Goo Gone and a scraper to get rid of that as well. In the beginning I wasn’t sure if I wanted to keep the glass or replace it with wood. I ended up keeping it though to keep the piece as authentic as possible and I’m so glad I did!

  5. I took out the sliding glass doors on the backside (actually, it would be the front side if you were shopping at the counter). I also decided to go ahead and remove the old lights and shelving that were currently there because after I removed the red felt that area looked pretty rough and needed to be taken out.

  6. I vacuumed everything again and then scrubbed the piece with a mixture of water and vinegar. Once it was nice and dry I started the staining process.

MATCHING THE WOOD:

The wood was chipped, broken, scratched, covered in tape and stickers and the wood was mismatched. The mismatched wood is something I did not initially notice. The six larger drawers on the top right were made of pine and the old small drawers, along with the rest of the piece, were made with wood from a sweet gum tree. At some point, someone removed some of the tiny receipt cubbies and added six large drawers and by doing this the wood they used did not match the original wood. While that may not seem like a big deal, when I sanded everything down, the wood didn’t match AT all even after I tried to stain it. So, I thought, I’ll just find the wood that was originally used and replace it, but of course there is always a catch!! There was a blight many years ago and finding wood from a sweet gum tree to help everything match well wasn’t possible. UGH!

I went to my brother-in-law who works at a local lumber mill for help. We went through a bunch of samples of wood to try and find the best match, but nothing seemed to work. The only thing I could do was find something similar and do my best to make it look original to the sweet gum wood. My best option was to go with cherry. My brother-in-law made me new drawer fronts and my husband re-built the drawers and added the new fronts.

THE STAINING/MATCHING PROCESS:

On the base of the piece and on the original drawers I used Howard Restor-A-Finish in Dark Walnut. On the new (cherry) drawer fronts, I had to get a little creative.

  1. With my hammer and a bag of nails I beat the new wood to give it an “aged” look.

  2. I then applied Miniwax, Special Walnut over the wood and wiped it off so that the stain would darken and set in the knicks and scratches that I intentionally put in the new wood.

  3. I applied a coat of General Finishes Gel Stain in Nutmeg.

  4. Once everything was dry and since I wasn’t going for perfection, I randomly applied a coat of Howard Restor-A-Finish in Dark Walnut to the drawer fronts.

NEW SIDES:

I wasn’t crazy about the plywood sides, so I decided to spruce them up with 2.5” slats that I purchased from Lowes. We attached them when Titebond and 1” finishing nails. I used three coats of General Finishes Gel Stain in Nutmeg to tie everything together.

Note, I did not wipe the gel stain off after I applied it because it caused the color to be too light. You can see in the third picture below, the slat on the left side was not wiped off. Since the slats were on the sides of the piece “wear and tear” didn’t really matter, therefore I applied/painted the gel stain on with a foam brush to darken the color and didn’t do anything else to it.

ADDING NEW HARDWARE:

I really wanted to salvage the original pulls, but it was so mismatched, broken and scratched that I couldn’t get it to work no matter how hard I tried. There were even a couple of old bracelets being used to open the drawers. Ha!. Anyway, I did not have enough of the same pulls or knobs for everything to make sense, so I had to purchase new ones. On all of the small drawers I used card catalog pulls that I purchased off of Amazon. On the larger drawers, I wanted to do something slightly different, so I purchased separate card label frames and reused the knobs that originally came on the piece to complete the look.

BEFORE AND AFTER PICTURES:

This piece took a little longer than planned because of the mismatched wood dilemma, but now it has an even better story, right!? I’m excited to get it in our home and use it as our TV stand. Hey, and ya never know, maybe our children (or me!?) will own a store one day and use this piece for the check-out counter!

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As always, thank you so much for tuning in for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Don’t forget to check out my previous #MondayMakeoversWithFallon blog posts below as well as my other educating #TuesdayTipsWithFallon video tips/tutorials!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.

Did you know I have an eBook plus three different staging and styling guides that help you stage your furniture!? Between all three guides you receive over 500 different ways to style and stage different pieces of furniture. Yes, 500!! They are not just for the furniture artist either. Maybe you are planning on selling your home and need help staging your furniture so it doesn’t look cluttered or maybe you just have no clue how to style the furniture that you currently have and you want it to look nice?! No worries! These are for you!! Between all three guides and my second edition eBook you get over 200 pages of information! You do not have to worry about staging and styling your furniture ever again!!Here is the link to my eBook, Your Virtual Storefront. The Complete Guide to Staging Painted Furniture. It jammed packed information that will help you take your staging to the next level! I also have three separate staging and styling guides that help you stage specific pieces of furniture.

Here is a breakdown of my eBook and Guides:

*Your Virtual Storefront. The Complete Guide to Staging Your Painted Furniture. 2nd EDITION: Everything you need to know to help you stage your furniture from, photography, the photo editing process, lighting, staging areas/locations, information about logo/watermarks…just to name a handful of the topics.

*The Bedroom Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Chest of Drawers, Dressers, Nightstands, Wardrobes, Blanket Chests, Vanities, Beds and Bedroom Sets)

*The Dining Room Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Buffets/Sideboards, China Hutches, Glass Front China Cabinets and Tables & Chairs

*The Everyday Living Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Desks, Multi-Purpose Pieces, Sofa Tables, TV Stands, Side Tables, Coffee Tables, Benches and Bookshelves

I appreciate you stopping by!!

Make sure you check out my other #MondayMakeoversWithFallon tutorials below!!

Full Tutorial on Water-Damaged Desk Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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This beautiful desk came to me with a lot of water damage. I fell in love with the character that the piece had to offer so I was determined to bring it back to life for my client! See the process below.

THE FIXING & PREP PROCESS:

  1. First, I removed the chipping veneer. The veneer was messed up on the right side of the piece because that was where the water leaked on it. The water got underneath the veneer making it hard to repair so I ended up scraping and chipping it all off with a hammer and metal putty knife/scrapper. There were a few stubborn spots, but thankfully most of it came off pretty easily.

  2. I removed the back of the piece because it was falling apart.

  3. I glued and clamped any areas that had cracked due the moisture from the water. I clamped each section together where it had separated. This process took at extra day because there were a lot small cracks all over the piece and I wanted to make sure the glue had ample time to dry.

  4. Once the veneer was completely removed and everything was fixed/glued, I used 60 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander because I needed something really course to get rid of any leftover glue

  5. I then applied Bondo to the areas that I applied glue in the cracks. I wanted to make sure the seams from the cracks were smooth and wouldn’t separate again over time.

  6. I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper to get rid of any rough spots from the Bondo followed by 220 grit on my sander to smooth everything out

  7. I then wiped everything down with Mineral Spirits. Once it was nice and dry I started the painting process

THE PRIMING & PAINTING PROCESS:

  1. I started by priming the whole piece with two coats of BIN Primer

  2. I hand sanded the whole piece to make sure the primer was nice and smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.

  3. Vacuumed the sanding dust

  4. Applied 3 coats of Autentico Vintage Paint in the color Belgian Stone.

  5. I lightly distressed all of the edges to bring the white through. I used 220 grit sandpaper to achieve the look I was going for.

  6. Vacuumed the sanding dust

  7. I painted, sealed and added a new piece of plywood to the back of the piece to replace the old one that was falling apart.

  8. I spray painted the hardware white to match the white that was peeking through the grey where I distressed it.

  9. I white washed the “lattice” so that you could still see through it and made sure it tied in well with the rest of the piece.

  10. I then sealed the whole piece with Autentico Clear Wax, buffed it about 30 minutes after I applied the wax and then applied a second coat. Once the second coat sat on the piece for about 15 minutes, I buffed it one more time to give the piece a little shine.

BEFORE AND AFTERS:

As always, thank you so much for tuning in for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Don’t forget to check out my previous #MondayMakeoversWithFallon blog posts below as well as my other educating #TuesdayTipsWithFallon video tips/tutorials!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.

Did you know I have an eBook plus three different staging and styling guides that help you stage your furniture!? Between all three guides you receive over 500 different ways to style and stage different pieces of furniture. Yes, 500!! They are not just for the furniture artist either. Maybe you are planning on selling your home and need help staging your furniture so it doesn’t look cluttered or maybe you just have no clue how to style the furniture that you currently have and you want it to look nice?! No worries! These are for you!! Between all three guides and my second edition eBook you get over 200 pages of information! You do not have to worry about staging and styling your furniture ever again!!Here is the link to my eBook, Your Virtual Storefront. The Complete Guide to Staging Painted Furniture. It jammed packed information that will help you take your staging to the next level! I also have three separate staging and styling guides that help you stage specific pieces of furniture.

Here is a breakdown of my eBook and Guides:

*Your Virtual Storefront. The Complete Guide to Staging Your Painted Furniture. 2nd EDITION: Everything you need to know to help you stage your furniture from, photography, the photo editing process, lighting, staging areas/locations, information about logo/watermarks…just to name a handful of the topics.

*The Bedroom Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Chest of Drawers, Dressers, Nightstands, Wardrobes, Blanket Chests, Vanities, Beds and Bedroom Sets)

*The Dining Room Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Buffets/Sideboards, China Hutches, Glass Front China Cabinets and Tables & Chairs

*The Everyday Living Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Desks, Multi-Purpose Pieces, Sofa Tables, TV Stands, Side Tables, Coffee Tables, Benches and Bookshelves

I appreciate you stopping by!!


Make sure you check out my other #MondayMakeoversWithFallon blog posts below!

Complete Tutorial On How To Transform An Antique Vanity To Nightstands!

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Step 1: Separate pieces. Each piece of furniture is different. I wish I could tell you to “do it exactly like this” but sometimes the pieces are connected with screws and other times they are connected with nails. I have even seen both used on the same piece, so just be prepared with a screw driver and hammer in hand. Also, make sure you protect your eyes with safety glasses when you’re removing these pieces!

Step 2: Cut apart. My husband helped me cut the last piece off that connects to the backside of the tables. First he used the reciprocating saw to separate them (you could also use a circular saw) and he then ran the tables through the table saw to get a super clean cut.

Step 3: Add missing piece of molding. Since the piece was separated into two different sections, part of the molding was taken off leaving a gap towards the back of the tables. To fix this, I took a piece off molding from the scraps that I removed in the beginning, cut the molding down with a miter saw, then glued and clamped it to the table. From there, I used Bondo (see step 5) and sanded the area really well so you wouldn’t be able to tell the molding wasn’t original.

Step 4: Clean and sand smooth after cutting. I cleaned the piece inside out with TSP, let it dry really well, then sanded the areas where we cut. I also sanded down the areas where I removed all of the old nails. I wanted to make sure I had a nice clean surface so that when I applied the Bondo to the sides, it would stick well and leave me with a smooth finish.

Step 5: Fill holes. I know, this part looks scary but this is the part that brings everything together! I applied Bondo to each hole and area that had been cut to smooth out the surface. I had to repeat this process a few times to get exact look I wanted. Once the Bondo was dry, I sanded it with 80 grit sandpaper, followed by 220 grit sandpaper on my Random Orbital Sander. Click HERE for a #TuesdayTipsWithFallon tutorial on how I apply Bondo.

Step 6: Clean, Vacuum, Prime, Sand. After I sanded the Bondo to a smooth finish, it was time to clean everything again. I vacuumed off all the sanding dust, scrubbed each piece with TSP and then once everything was completely dry, I applied 2 coats of BIN Shellac Primer. Once the primer was dry, I sanded it to smooth finish with a 220 grit sanding pad. Of course, I vacuumed everything one more time from where I sanded the primer.

Step 7: Apply Paint Color, Distress Edges, Seal with Top Coat. I applied 3 coats of Cathedral Taupe by Fusion Mineral Paint with my 2'“ Palm Pro by Zibra. I lightly hand-distressed the edges with 220 grit sandpaper and sealed each piece with 3 coats of General Finishes High Performance Top Coat in Flat.

Step 8: Sand Legs and Apply Howard’s Restore-A-Finish. Since the original finish was starting to come off, I decided to go ahead remove it to give the legs a fresh look. I hand sanded them with 150 grit sandpaper and then applied Howard’s Restor-A-Finish in Mahogany. After that I applied Howard’s Feed and Wax to preserve and protect the color that I just applied.

Step 9: Wipe down drawers with Howard’s Restore-A-Finish, Line Drawers with Paper, Add New Knobs. First, I wiped the drawers down with Howard’s Restor-A-Finish to bring them back to life. Click HERE for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon tutorial on how I apply Howard’s Restor-A-Finish to drawers. From there, I added vintage hymns as drawer liners and finished each piece off with new knobs!

Before-and-After Pictures:

Guess what!? These are for sale, too!! Click HERE for the listing!!

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.

Did you know I have an eBook plus three different staging and styling guides that help you stage your furniture!? Between all three guides you receive over 500 different ways to style and stage different pieces of furniture. Yes, 500!! They are not just for the furniture artist either. Maybe you are planning on selling your home and need help staging your furniture so it doesn’t look cluttered or maybe you just have no clue how to style the furniture that you currently have and you want it to look nice?! No worries! These are for you!! Between all three guides and my second edition eBook you get over 200 pages of information! You do not have to worry about staging and styling your furniture ever again!!Here is the link to my eBook, Your Virtual Storefront. The Complete Guide to Staging Painted Furniture. It jammed packed information that will help you take your staging to the next level! I also have three separate staging and styling guides that help you stage specific pieces of furniture.

Here is a breakdown of my eBook and Guides:

*Your Virtual Storefront. The Complete Guide to Staging Your Painted Furniture. 2nd EDITION: Everything you need to know to help you stage your furniture from, photography, the photo editing process, lighting, staging areas/locations, information about logo/watermarks…just to name a handful of the topics.

*The Bedroom Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Chest of Drawers, Dressers, Nightstands, Wardrobes, Blanket Chests, Vanities, Beds and Bedroom Sets)

*The Dining Room Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Buffets/Sideboards, China Hutches, Glass Front China Cabinets and Tables & Chairs

*The Everyday Living Furniture Guide: Staging and Styling Desks, Multi-Purpose Pieces, Sofa Tables, TV Stands, Side Tables, Coffee Tables, Benches and Bookshelves

I appreciate you stopping by!!

Make sure you check out my other #MondayMakeoversWithFallon blog posts below!

Step-by-Step Guide, Spindle Grant Table Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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I have been dying to use the color Lichen by Fusion Mineral Paint and it did not disappoint! It's such a soothing green color. Aren’t the spindles amazing on this table? See the makeover below!

The Prep Process:

The Painting Process:

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.


Make sure you check out my other #MondayMakeoversWithFallon blog posts below!

Industrial Filing Cabinets to Side Tables Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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I’ve been on the hunt for a couple of unique filing cabinets so that I could transform them into something cool. These were the perfect fit and you can do so many different things with them. You can make them into side tables/nightstands, set them apart and add a piece of wood to the top to make a desk, or of course, they could be used as filing cabinets! I love when pieces serve so many different purposes. Anyway, when I saw these two I snatched them up and got to work! See the process below.

THE PREP PROCESS:

  • I removed the drawers and laid everything out so I could have easy access to each piece during the cleaning process.

  • I cleaned and scrubbed the cabinets inside-and-out with Krud Kutter and a Scotch Brite pad.

  • I let the cabinets dry really well in the sun, HOWEVER, I did not let the metal get hot because I knew that it would affect the application of the spray paint. I made sure that they dried well (about 30 minutes), but then moved them to the shade.

THE PAINTING PROCESS:

  • The painting process was pretty simple. I found a well ventilated area (not in the direct sunlight) and started spraying! My absolute favorite product to use on metal is Rust-Oleum spray paint. It goes on smooth and holds up really well over time. I probably could have gotten away with (2) cans of spray paint, but being the perfectionist that I am when it comes to painting, I actually used (1.5) cans on each cabinet, so I went through (3) cans total. I wanted to make sure I covered every square inch, inside-and-out.

ADDING WOOD BASE:

  • The base of the filing cabinet measures 12 x 24, so I had a to buy a large board from The Home Depot and cut it down to fit the base.

  • I smoothed out the cut board with a piece of sandpaper then I scuffed up the bottom of the filing cabinet so the glue would adhere well.

  • I just Rapid Bond Super Glue and spread it all over the bottom of the filing cabinet.

  • I quickly placed the cut board on top of the glue. Instead of clamping the board down with clamps, I just added some books and weights to the top to apply pressure.

ADDING HAIRPIN LEGS:

  • I purchased these Hairpin Legs off of Amazon.

  • The instructions recommended screwing the legs in 1.5” from the edge, so that’s what we did!

  • The screws that came with the legs were too long, so I had to purchase new ones (pictured below)

  • I measured and marked each hole then my husband pre-drilled and screwed them in for me.

BEFORE-AND-AFTER PHOTOS: I love the way these turned out! They were just as I envisioned. They can serve many different purposes and are one-of-a-kind!!

Guess what!? These are for sale, too!! Here is the listing: Industrial Filing Cabinets/Side Tables. If you aren’t local and would like a shipping quote, just let me know!

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.


Humidor to Side Table Makeover #MondayMakeoversWithFallon

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This is one of those pieces that you walk by and you’re like, “Oh my goodness! What a cute little table!” I instantly saw the potential because of it’s petite size! See the process below.

The Prep Process:

  • I removed the hardware and the door. I wasn’t crazy about the door because it drooped a little, so I went ahead and took it off. I also knew I was going to replace the top so I went ahead and unscrewed it and took it off as well.

  • Even though this piece was a humidor, it was pretty clean. I think it was used as a side table, instead of humidor, so it was pretty clean. I went ahead and gave it a good bath though with TSP.

  • Once everything was dry I scuff-sanded the piece with 220 grit sandpaper.

  • After I sanded it, I vacuumed it really well and cleaned it again with Krud-Kutter.

The Staining Process

The Painting Process:

  • For the body of the piece I used Fiddle Leaf by Old Barn Milk Paint.I applied two coats with my Zibra 2” Palm Pro letting each coat dry well in-between.

  • Once both coats were dry, I lightly hand-sanded it with 220 girt sandpaper to give it an aged look. By doing this it added some depth to the piece. The paint also naturally chipped in a few places which was exactly what I wanted!

  • I sealed the entire piece with Clear Wax by Old Barn Milk Paint. After it sat on the piece for about 30 minutes, I buffed it with a shop towel to make it nice and smooth.

  • I added new knobs to match the dark oak top.

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.


Make sure you check out my other #MondayMakeoversWithFallon blog posts below!

Step-by-Step Guide, A Simple White Table Makeover

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Isn’t this the cutest little table? It was a custom piece I re-did for a client. It definitely needed a refresh and some fixing, but it was a pretty simple process! See below.

THE PREP PROCESS:

  • I cleaned this piece with a 3M sponge and TSP

  • After it was dry, I sanded the top of the piece with 120 grit on my orbital sander and then hand sanded the legs with a 120 grit piece of sandpaper

  • I vacuumed off all of the sanding dust

  • I cleaned the whole piece one more time Krud Kutter and shop towels. I wanted to make sure any lose dirt and dust from where I sanded it was completely gone

THE PRIMING PROCESS:

  • I spray-primed the whole piece with a coat of BIN /Shellac to prevent any potential bleed through

  • Once the Shellac was dry, I lightly hand sanded the piece with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the primer

  • I vacuumed the sanding dust so the surface was nice and clean

THE FIXING PROCESS: Just as a side note, I typically fix my pieces before I prime, but I did this piece backwards because it came apart on me during the priming process.

  • I glued the loose areas with Titebond and clamped everything until the glue was nice and dry. I also fixed any screws that had come loose.

  • I filled in the gaps under the table. There wasn’t a lot I could do with this area because the wood had warped. I filled the gaps with caulk to make the piece look nice and complete. Tune in tomorrow for my #TuesdaysTipsWithFallon tutorial so you can see this process.

THE PAINTING PROCESS:

As always, thank you so much for tuning in this week for #MondayMakeoversWithFallon. If you want to save this blog post so you can refer back to it, make sure you pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. I look forward being with you next Monday and don’t forget to tune in tomorrow for my educating video tutorial/tip for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!!

*Please note, this post does contain affiliate links.